BY WENDY CAPLIN

What a trip! Up 5:30 AM on Weds,July 9th after a full 2 hours of sleep. Badly prepared. Forgetting everything. Transporting pounds of pastrami and tongue and black & white cookies for the transported New Yorkers, Myles and Megan. Long flight to Seattle. No sleep but we arrived to gorgeous sunny weather. Myles picked us up and took us home to meet Sasha, the newest Harlow/Kahn (born Fri, June 13th). They call her "Peanut" and it is the perfect name. She is tiny and gorgeous beyond belief. Myles and Megan are totally smitten (as were we). And also extremely sleep deprived but still grinning from ear to ear w/well deserved pride. Sasha is a wonderful baby. Even when she fusses she does it softly. Megan was trying to get her on schedule so she'd sleep through the night. Harlow has not stopped kvelling. Myles' brother Ames was staying with them. We hadn't seen him for a few years and all we can say is Yow!! He has metamorphosed into an incredible hunky grown up in the intervening years. Myles grilled burgers and chicken for us all and then brought us back to our hotel so we could crash. Harlow had agreed to play at a the Hispanic Seafair concert on Sunday in exchange for our airfare and hotel, which was the Hyatt Regency and class all the way. W/Starbucks in the lobby, natch. We slept like dead things and woke up feeling great to another gorgeous day. We established a routine. We'd hit the health club every morning (Harlow too). I discovered the joy of the elliptical machine. I could knock off mileage in no time so I was working toward 3 miles a day. Then we'd get coffee and shower and hit the mall across the street where I would get a daily massage in Brookstone. They had 5 different massage loungers and 3 cushion massages and 3 foot massages. It was a great way to soothe away the pain of the workout..

We were waiting for Myles to pick up Andy (his mother, Harlow's first wife) whose plane was delayed so we walked to the Pike Place Market which was as awesome as I'd remembered. And then Myles got us and drove us all to their house. Andy hadn't met Sasha yet either. Megan and I went to the supermarket. I am still blown away by how big and beautiful and well stocked they are. And it was the opportunity to grab another Cappucino and talk to Megan a little. Later Megan's aunt Sue and her son Christoffer and his wife Mushki and son Johann (last 3 in from Denmark) came over for dinner. Myles, once again the barbecuer par excellence, turned out salmon and grilled vegetables and we pigged out again. Johann, who is 3, bonded w/Harlow who was totally on his wave length. And of course, we all were still worshipping little Sasha. It was a lovely and relaxing day. And also always great to hang out with Andy. I got a kick out of seeing Andy and Harlow together around the baby.

Friday we spent in the city. Worked out, got tickets for a boat ride around the lakes. Walked to the wrong Argosy travel but had a great lunch at a place Myles and Megan had turned us on to the last time we had visited. Then we had to cab it to the boat. It was hot and dry and sunny and the boat ride was magnificent. We cruised the fancy houses including Bill Gates' unbelievable property. Very chill. Then we went straight u(cats)p the Cinerama, a truly high tech movie theater w/a HUGE screen that practically wraps around, awesome sound system, great seats. We saw "Pirates of the Carribean." And loved it. (I should add that by this time I had developed a 3 cappuccino a day habit. There is so much great coffee in Seattle and it is so available wherever you go - that I found myself craving more and more.) Then scooted back to the hotel to change and walk back to Palace Kitchen which was actually right across from the movie theater. This was Cindy Meyer's recommendation and it was great. Very innovative menu. Nothing sounded like it would work, but everything did. Great salad. Then duck prosciutto w/pickled cherries and wheat crackers (yum!!!) then what was called a terrine of smoked salmon that was about the best nova in the world sliced slightly thick and layered w/something delicious. It was accompanied by endive leaves to eat it on. Then excellent sweetbreads. And a huge bowl of manila clams steamed w/exquisite chorizos and some green marine vegetables that I called 'sea beans' that were delicious but probably have a real name. Then, on Cindy's insistence, we ordered the coconut cake which is not something I like at all. This version was so extraordinary w/fresh coconuts shards and whipped cream and a moist cake we had to fight each other for it. We even left over half of the chocolate praline cake because the coconut was so good. It was a waddle home night and a great day.

Saturday morning we picked up one of Myles' players, George Sosa, and his girlfriend Marla, and another player Perez (both play for Tampa Bay), and drove them to Myles' Famous Barbecue to meet Sasha. We hung out, ate grilled chicken and lots of fixins, then we drove the guys back to the ballpark and I walked around the city awhile. Got my massage at Sharper Image, changed and were picked up by Myles to go to the ballpark - Seattle/Tampa Bay. It was a great game. Yours truly hasn't been to a ballpark since the 1960s. We ate garlic fries and peanuts and sushi. Sosa didn't play but Perez hit his first Major League home run. We left early to avoid the mobs and Tampa took the game.

Sunday we went back to Myles and Megan's to visit (and do laundry) then back to the hotel for Harlow to get ready for his gig in Seward Park. We were driven there. Park was beautiful. They were set up in an amphitheater. Everyone was picnicking and hanging out. The local band he played with sounded really good. And Harlow, of course, was a monster. There was also a beauty pageant (he really hated that - Latino teenage girls from all over) and a dance contest. Harlow played a nice long set. Cindy (Marge Meyers daughter) and her boyfriend David met me there. She looks so much like Marge did when we met that I was blown away. And eternally grateful for the restaurant recommendation. It was great to see her again and hang out. Myles drove us back and even stayed to have dinner w/us at Cutter's, a really good restaurant right on the water. Famous for it's seafood. We ate ourselves sick that night (it was our anniversary) Harlow and I had oysters and we all shared a fabulous mussel and clam dish in a red sauce that was to die. We went through 3 bread baskets sopping it up. We had funny martinis. Harlow and I split a halibut stuffed w/crabmeat w/asparagus and an heirloom tomato salad. Then the 3 of us split and chocolate thing that was pure decadence. Even though we were stuffed we scarfed down every last drop and almost died of overeating.

Monday to Maui. LOOOOONG security lines but a decent flight., I ate everything in sight. Couldn't find the right carousel when we landed. Harlow picked up the car but had to get out and help me find our suitcases. The island looked very different because of the drought. Extremely dry. But still gorgeous. It was a little cloudy/stormy. Our hotel, the Westin, was crowded but the first thing we saw in the lobby was the pond w/the 7 pink flamingoes hanging out. They became our surrogate pets. We dumped our stuff. The room was small but lovely. Mountain view (less expensive). Pretty marble sink and vanity area. And the 'heavenly bed' which was everything I'd heard about and more (down mattress topper and 3 sheets and piles of down pillows). We checked the beach. Nice and sandy though not too wide. Took a walk to one end and then scoped out the little shopping center for sodas etc. Harlow had a hankering for Chinese food so we went to China Boat (recommended by Will, our bellhop). It was in the same little mall where our favorite restaurant, Roy's, is as well as the cybercafe we visited later. We had 2 dishes that were excellent. Real old fashion style and very reasonable by Maui standards. And then back to our heavenly bed where we slept like babies.

Tuesday we established our routine again. A few miles on the treadmill in the morning. Then we rented fins and hit the beach. It was a little cloudy and the water was a tad cool so we were waiting out the sun. Walked down to Black Rock which was recommended for snorkeling. I took a walk because I needed the sun to come out before I was ready to swim. When I got back Harlow had already wiped out on a huge wave and hurt his bad shoulder. So we packed it in and opted for lunch at the hula grill. One the beach. Under an umbrella. We split a fish sandwich and Gado Gado salad which had great local vegetables (sugar peas and teensy tomatoes etc) and scoops of rice w/a peanut sauce. No slouch. Then back to the pools and exploring the hotel. It's a gorgeous old place. Beautifully landscaped w/rock walls and waterfalls and 5 swimming pools and 2 water slides. Along w/our flamingoes there were the cutest ducks I've ever seen. The fattest fish I've ever seen. 2 cockatoos, one who would put his head down so you could scratch his neck. One who just shrieked. And a pair of parrots who were totally in love and kissed each other all the time. I was looking for shade and found a pretty little area up some stairs w/lounges under the trees and a pond that seemed to flow into infinity. And then I noticed the black and the white swans who lived there. Gliding around. Sometimes coming out and walking on the ground. So peaceful. And below there were outdoor massages. Then we showered and drove Upcountry to meet Bryan Ain, son of Barbara Rogove. He had moved there about 8 years ago and we hadn't seen him for ages. We were early so we watched the windsurfers at Hookipa Beach. This is something that defies description. 30 or 40 windsurfers in the setting sun flying at speeds that seem impossible. Then we went to Mama's Fish House (our second time there) where Bryan and his girlfriend Jenny met us. We had a macadamia nut crusted crabcake to start. I had pepper roasted ahi and asparagus. Harlow had macadamia crusted halibut stuffed w/lobster. It was so wonderful to see Bryan after all this time and to be able to catch up. After dinner we followed them to his house which is a little dream place on a piece of heavenly property in Haiku. A little 2 bedroom house up high w/a huge generous porch and views of fields and flowers and 3 horses, 3 dogs, and assorted kitties. All just hanging out. I was transfixed. For dessert - some Maui Wowie. Jenny is a doll. It was a little like going back in time. We floated back to out hotel.

By Weds. we knew it would be cloudy all morning so we went to Lahaina to shop around a little and then drove to Kapalua Beach where I got in the best snorkeling. Not many fish but brilliantly colored. Here I have to prostrate myself to Fredda Johnson for turning me on to "Maui Revealed" which is now my bible. Every beautiful beach and funky lunch spot we discovered was from the pages of that book. Like the Gazebo restaurant right on the reef where we got a totally delicious and very reasonable lunch. There is no way on earth we would have found this place w/o the book. Then we hit Napili Beach. Good swimming. Not great for snorkeling. I thought I'd forgotten my #30 sunscreen and had to walk through the resort where I had to spend every last penny I had on a bottle. But the saleslady had a daughter who had just moved to Manhattan and she was beside herself talking to me. We swam for awhile and then packed it in to change for dinner at Roy's Nicolina (there are actually 2 Roy's Restaurants right next to each other In the same mall so we had to make reservations at both. That was when we found that the car had died. Too late to get it jumped. So we had to cab it both ways. A little bit of a down but we got there and were starved. We opted for the tasting menu for me and duck lumpia (crispy pastry covered duck roll - unbelievable) and Opah w/ sweet potato cake for Harlow. We always just split everything anyway. Our first course of the tasting was raw salmon and ahi salad. To die. Then chiso grilled salmon salad w/crispy salmon skin and baby greens in a saki and soy vinaigrette (I am quoting directly from the menu), then a small custardlike cup topped w/lobster and caviar and truffled essences. The entrée was miso marinated butterfish (we both died and went to heaven over this fish - luscious and buttery and savory) and some smoked pulled pork for Harlow and vegetables. Including sheets of a pickled vegetable that I couldn't stop eating that turned out to be a beet!! Not my favorite vegetable most of the time.For dessert we got a trio: a small scoop of crème brulee, a scoop of green tea ice cream in a tuile cup, and a mango sorbet w/a butter cookie. We also ordered the cherry cobbler so we could try to burst our seams. We couldn't even finish it all. Orca and Orcette waddled into their heavenly bed once again.

Thursday Harlow got up extra early and called the car rental place and got the situation remedied and squiggled out of his workout. Then we went exploring the beaches in the Southern Maui. We got to see some scenery. First stop was Keawakapu. A long stretch of lightly populated beach. Good swimming. Not great for snorkeling. Then we wanted to hit one more before lunch so we went to Po'olenalena Beach but it was very cloudy and cool so we opted for lunch in Kihei. Our first pick from the book turned out to be closed so we choose the Pita Palace in Kalama. A little hard to find. There was a big funky covered flea market And twisty paths and there it was - the find of the century. I had the 'catch of the day' which was seared ahi, on a flat bread topped w/a tomato and lettuce chopped salad and some awesome dressing and roasted potatoes. Harlow had a gyro which he pronounced the best he's ever had. We sat on a shaded porch w/a perfect breeze cooling us. I got a cappuccino from Badass Coffee - a great store down the street. It was like finding a treasure. Then we spent the rest of the afternoon at Kame'ole beach which had lots of great dogs to watch and pat and great swimming and lots of sun. We ate at our hotel that night at the Tropica. On the water. I was still so stuffed I had 2 appetizers. But they were doozies. Tangled coconut shrimp were big and juicy and covered in shredded phyllo and beautifully presented. And a tempuraed ahi which was sashimi rolled and dipped in thin batter that was crisp and crackly but the fish was raw and perfect. Gorgeous presentation. Harlow had the lobster and filet mignon special. We were done so early that we drove into Lahaina and walked around. Went to the Martin Lawrence Gallerie where we'd bought our Erte' last time. Great stuff there. But nothing I loved as much as the one we have. I even found a store that had some clothing that worked for me and a mother/daughter matched outfit for Sasha and Megan. What more could I want our of life? Even if we had trouble sleeping and the toilet broke at 3:30 AM and I had to call for repairs because there was no way to sleep through the nonstop flushing.

On Friday our friends Rob and Christi flew in from Honolulu. Christi's and editor. Rob's a cameraman and he had a month long gig on Oahu. Christi got a week off from her job to fly to Hawaii and they had 2 days off. They were booked at the Royal Lahaina where we stayed last time. We went there and waited for them (the magic of all having cell phones). We discovered that their beach was the clearest and cleanest water we encountered the whole trip and had a perfect morning waiting for them. Then we headed South again to Makena. A really gorgeous and not too busy beach at the very end. The surf was a little big for us. But Christi and Rob were fine in it. I got my sunburn that day. Way too much time even w/all the sunscreen but it was great having friends to chat with. We left them there and had lunch again at Pita Palace. Spent the afternoon on our own beach and in the swimming pools where we discovered that the waterfalls gave intense massages if you parked right under them. Dinner at PacificO. On the beach at sunset. Split a salad - but got someone else's and ate it anyway. We split a local fish crusted w/macadamia nuts over black and white rice w/vegetables. Drank too much. Waited for Rob and Christi who had a later reservation. Drove to the ice cream parlor for sugar-free ice cream for Harlow. Hit some stores. And were back in the hotel by 9:30. Where the forecast was for rain.

Saturday was the clearest sunniest rainy day I ever saw. We went back to Rob and Christi's beach to hang out with them till they aught their flight. It was a little windy but nice. Then back to the Hula Grill for a repeat of our first lunch. I walked the entire beach and checked out every single hotel grounds. Marriott was elegant and laid back and beautiful (but no wildlife). Hyatt was so big and crowded it felt like a continent. The beach was all rock in front it. There was a pirate beach w/a suspension bridge (made me extremely nauseous) for the kids. Pretty but too dense. There were a few condos and local hotels. No great shakes. The Sheraton had pretty manicured lawns and a swimming pool like a lagoon that snaked around and was kind of cool. But only the Westin had the birds and the gorgeous rock formations w/paths leading to a pavilion where you couldn't see another soul. A few too many people/ But essentially the prettiest and best choice for us. We were starving again when we hit Roy's Bar and Grill. Harlow had the brilliant idea of ordering the tasting menu which came w/wine w/each course. We also had a dim sum canoe which was quite tasty and even though we brought a camera - we totally forgot to take pictures because we were too busy scarfing. The first tasting course was crab cakes in spicy sesame butter w/a delicious chardonnay. Then a wonderful butterfish course w/a Riesling. Then peppercorn sea scallops over micro greens w/a truffle essence accompanied by a fabulous Pinot Noir. And the entrée course of grilled Teriyaki salmon (like no salmon you've ever tasted. Even in Seattle) and a filet mignon for Harlow. We were allowed to substitute a chocolate soufflé for dessert which we did and it was sinful and dense memorable. And the couple at the next table even volunteered to take a picture of the 2 of us together. And we chatted awhile and then rolled back to our hotel.

Sunday we spent by the hotel. I finally got to snorkel at Black Rock. Saw some blowfish and some really strange looking sea creatures. Then I swam w/Harlow in the pool and we packed and headed to the airport. On the way we stopped at a tacky food court in a mall that our book recommended. And sure enough I had a French-Vietnamese meal for $4 that was great and there was plenty there at incredibly affordable prices that looked amazing. For next time. Then back to Seattle where it was 3 hours later. No place open for food. Spent a restless night on a hard mattress at the Radisson by the airport. Worked out in the morning. And Brendan, Megan's brother, picked us up and took us to see Sasha again. Oh yeah, and Myles and Megan. We sat around. Did laundry. Had dinner at a local Teriyaki place. Got a ride to the airport and began a long night of no sleep on the red eye back home. We were so tired from everything but the flight attendants were loud and every time we dozed we were woken up so we gave up. Arrived home at 7AM (really for AM for us. Had just enough time to dump our stuff and say hi to Sophie and Sasha (our cats) who were delighted to see us. Shower and change and assemble at the Parker Meridien to get banded and herded to Celia Cruz/s funeral. She died while we were away and we really wanted to be there. It was a drawn out production. There were about 150 of us. Artists, friends etc. We had a police escort stop traffic so we could stay together. Fifth Avenue was cordoned off. We waited at 53rd for the carriage w/her coffin. For an hour. It started to rain and then pour. It looked more like a New Orleans funeral. When the white glass carriage arrived, drawn by white horses, it became intensely sad. We were all drenched and walked with the mayor of NY behind it to St. Patrick's where we were led in. The service was gorgeous. All in Spanish. Harlow translated for me. There were wonderful eulogies. And then Patti Labelle sang Ave Maria and I felt like I might never stop crying again. I didn't know Celia. But Harlow had worked with her a lot. And I had grown to love her music (and had spent many days editing some of them). But just knowing that she was never going to sing again was unbearable. It was an incredibly moving service and I felt very privileged to have been able to be a part of it.